I’m not sure how I feel about French food. As a 30-something, I grew up with the impression that French food was a cut above. The vocabulary of food is full of French – gourmet, cuisine, a la carte, Maitre D’, and those don’t even go near the actual food.

As a result, I avoided it. I just didn’t think I’d get it, I though that my palate wasn’t sophisticated anough and neither was I. French food was the expensive stuff in films and not for any old punter. Silly isn’t it?

The problem for this food-lover is that I’ve missed out on years of eating some of the world’s most delicious food. So now I have a project. Eat French. Tough old life isn’t it ?

Taking on this challenge, my parents, my partner and I visited Hugo’s on Baggott Street, recently.

First impressions were of a busy, bustling, laid-back restaurant with a warm atmosphere. We were seated by a charming waitress and perused the menus.

The menu is full of delicious options, with the starters even including frog’s legs and snails. Oh la la…

This being Francais, the emphasis is on meat. Pork, duck, chicken, steak; you will find some of the best examples here. But veggies – avoid. If you don’t do the fish thing, there is simply nothing here for you. They have a Tian of Roast Vegetables on the menu, but it looked awful and seemed to be there as a token gesture.

We my dad had his usual steak, my mam went for Grilled Whole Sea Bass, Sauce Antiboise, Baby Potatoes And Courgettes, I chose Crispy Slow Roasted Leg Of Barberie Duck And Toulouse Sausage, Pomme Salardaise With Lardons, Grilled Vine Cherry Tomatoes And Wholegrain Mustard Sauce and my partner plumbed for Artic Char, Pan Seared With Whole Garlic Cloves, Mash Potato, Cepes And Chanterelles, Tomato And White Wine Jus.

We order and we waited.

And we waited.

We questioned the waitress who checked for us and came back with more bread. No explanation, no apology.

Thirty minutes later, it was as if we’d been waiting for a bus – four waiters showed up at the same time, with our mains. Thirty minutes waiting and not a word?! That is just not on.

When we got down to the business of eating, all complaints were forgotten. The steak was “gorgeous”, according to the man among us and my mother’s sea bass was “so tender and juicy”.

As for the two critics My partner thought her Arctic Char was lovely and the mushrooms just delicious – plump and tasty, not the watering slop you sometimes get served. She wasn’t bowled-over though. She considered it pleasant enough, nothing to complain about, but nothing too fantastic either.

Me? Mine was gorgeous. The duck was succulent, tender and cooked to perfection, without any of the greasiness people associate with the wee bird.  I’d thought that the Toulouse Sausage spice would cut through the flavour of the duck a bit too much, but it wasn’t too spicey and the two complemented each other beautifully.

Desserts didn’t disappoint either. Mam and Dad had Crumble of the Day (Apple and Vanilla) between them and I went for Date Pudding With A Melting Praline Centre, Homemade Vanilla Ice Creams. Sinfully delicious. it was moist and sticky in all the right places.

With two bottles of wine our bill came to €163.

If this is French food I have seriously been missing out. What, in my ignorant mind, was high-faluting food that took it self too seriously, is actually simple, fresh food cooked in expert ways.

Hugo’s Website

Menu Pages

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